People bustling by, so close I can feel their breath against my cheeks and the sound of their prayer wheels whizzing round as they continue past me on their Kora around the Barkor circuit. I am struck by much more than simply needing to adjust to the altitude. The constant release of incense just in front of the Jokhang temple takes a while to take in for both my nose and eyes as I observe everything through the haze. Standing for a few minutes taking in the atmosphere, this